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Archive for the ‘Photography Tips’ Category

Edit In vs. Edit Out

Tuesday, August 24th, 2010

These days, editing seems like a long lost art for most people other than professionals. Editing is the art of choosing your best pictures and then taking those to the next level. For most of my career I edited out, tossing what I didn’t want and keeping the rest. About two years ago a friend of mine forced me to try editing in. It was near impossible at first but after a few jobs it became second nature. Having tried both I could never go back.

Here is the basic premise: let’s say you have 6 similar images in front of you. If you edit out, you may pull out 3 but still have 3 left. In reality, only one is a hero shot. Now, if you edit in, you will pick 1 shot out of the 6 and it is the clear winner. It seems like a small shift in perception but it has a HUGE impact on your workflow. You will edit about 70% faster and have a tighter edit when you are done. This will help you tell the story of the event with less images. You will learn more from looking over a tighter edit and you will do more with the resulting images. In this manner, you can end the analysis paralysis that plagues you and choose good solid images and do things with them.

This is not just a pro-technique, it is probably even more useful for consumers. You come home with a camera full of images and throw them on a hard drive. Maybe you share a few but you get overwhelmed by it all and they just sit there. If you take a few minutes to “edit in” you will reduce the number you are storing, only keep the best, and be more likely to actually print them. Remember life with film? You always had prints and ALWAYS put something up in your home to display, whether on the wall or in an album. Editing In will help you actually do something with your images again so you can truly enjoy your memories.

Below is a screen shot with similar RAW images and the one with the box around it is the winner of the bunch. The reason I picked it over the others should be obvious – it is sharp, it has the best facial expression, and the composition and lighting are great. Maybe I would pick one other that is serious but this is a happy, fun bride and this shot sums up a portrait of her in one shot. Why bother keeping the rest? Neither of us will ever use them.

This is also a cool feature of PurePhoto that may help you organize. You can use our split screen feature to split a CF card into multiple galleries. For example, you may have the Fourth of July parade, bath time, and some winter scenes you shot all on one card before you download. With our split screen feature, you can easily drag and drop those images into different galleries to keep them organized. Now they will be easier to “edit in.”

*On the left is the gallery with the 3 different events, on the right is the main library. You can add new sub galleries as you drag and drop the images from the left panel to the right panel. EASY!

Newborn Triplets…

Wednesday, August 18th, 2010

this shoot has got to be one of my favorites to date!  it is a rare and magical moment when a newborn smiles during a shoot, let alone three all at the same time!  all the babies had just been fed and were happy to be next to their siblings.  i have been trying to add a little bit of a fairytale feel into my shoots lately, so the homemade crowns were a simple and fun way to add that little extra something special.  PORTRAIT TIP:  for newborn photographers just starting out, it is best to keep the room super warm… think texas in the summertime warm!  the more you can make your studio into an environment similar to the womb, the better.  i always keep my space at about 85 degrees with a warming pad also underneath the blankets the babies are laying on to keep them extra cozy!

- joy harmon prouty.  see more on my blog.

New Video on Black and White Conversions

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

We just posted a free video as a little teaser for what is inside the premium content area at PurePhoto.com. This is a simple B&W conversion in Photoshop that requires no advanced knowledge, advanced techniques, or 3rd party plug-ins. It is a quick Desaturate and Contrast bump.

embedded by Embedded Video

We just posted a free video…

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

We just posted a free video on how to tune up your vacation photo. It plays a bit small on DailyMotion but you should still be able to follow along. To see hundreds of HiDef educational photography videos in all their full screen glory, sign up for PurePhtoto.com’s Premium Membership.

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Quick Tip: Histogram

Thursday, August 5th, 2010

There is a full video on this one in our Learn section but I’ll give you the basic gist here…

*Camera Set-Up:
I want to start out first by making sure your camera is set-up properly. Most of you have the LCD of your camera set to maximum brightness. Read your manual and find out how to change this setting.  You want to change the brightness level of the LCD to the halfway point. Your image wont look as great on the back but you will have a more accurate idea of what your file is really going to look like. This also has the added benefit of forcing you to use your histogram, which is what will truly tell you if you have nailed your exposure.

Reading your camera’s histogram:

The histogram probably pops up often but you just don’t know what it is or how to read it. The basic idea is that the left side is your black point and the right side is your white point. If you pass the bottom corner and your data starts to slide up the side than you are clipping information.  If everything is stacked up to the right than your picture is overexposed (too bright) and you need to adjust your shutter speed until it comes back into range. If everything is stacked up to the left than your picture is underexposed (too dark.) You will need to adjust either the shutter speed or the aperture in order to correct this. While adjusting, beware that your shutter speed stays above a 60th of a second unless you are on a tripod. Also be aware of your aperture if you are going for a specific creative choice.

Turn on your camera and play around with it. Adjusting your LCD Brightness will probably clear up many of your exposure problems. Press the Histogram after your next few shots and see what you are getting.

UnderExposed (Too Dark) Black point has travelled up the left side.

Good Histogram. Left and Right side are contained and nothing is sliding up either side.

OverExposed (Too Bright) The white point has travelled up the right side and information is being lost.

This is where your LCD brightness should be.

This is the same shot with the same exposure. The difference is the LCD brightness. See how easy it is misjudge your exposure based on your LCD brightness?

Any specific questions, leave a comment!

Landscape Tip from Peter Eastway…

Saturday, July 31st, 2010

If you dig down a few centimetres into the loose, black soil, the ground becomes increasingly warm. Deception Island is, after all, an active volcano. So did I take off my gloves and dig into the earth?

Not a chance! Although some of the passengers on board took a dip (it was a few days before they warmed up again), I chickened out and struggled with the weather which was quickly closing in. In the distance are the remains of the whaling station. Behind me is an old hangar, but the one remaining plane had been removed a couple of years ago. Certainly flying in seemed an attractive option, weather permitting.

What I love about this photograph is the sense of atmosphere. I’ve used a very wide-angle lens and a moderate shutter speed, 1/80 second, yet the snow is moving so quickly it has streaked across the image. The snow is also creating the ‘hazy’ look in the distance. This is what I love about shooting in changeable weather – it’s so much more involving than a still, sunny day.

PHASE ONE 645AF WITH P65+ BACK + 28MM
F14 @ 1/80, EV -1, ISO 50

Landscape Photography Tip

Bad Weather Is Beautiful
Don’t put your camera away just because it is raining, hailing or snowing. Most cameras can handle a little precipitation, or you can put a plastic bag over the top of your camera. Or if you’re travelling, the plastic shower caps you find in many hotels makes a great camera jacket. The one downside of shooting in bad weather is that the light can be flat and a little drab. Ensure you have an interesting foreground as this will ensure you get the most colour possible, and be prepared to increase both the contrast and the colour saturation in post-production.

To see more of Peter’s Work or check out his Visible Light Workshops click here…

Landscape tip from Peter Eastway…

Wednesday, July 28th, 2010

The water boats on the black beach at Deception Island are popular subjects with Antarctic travellers. In 2009, there were just three standing, and these two were in the best condition.

The weather was and wasn’t smiling, depending on how you look at it. What I wouldn’t give to spend a day or two here, in slightly warmer weather, to take advantage of the changeable conditions. Shortly after we landed, the weather closed in and began snowing heavily. In the full size image, it is easy to the falling snow in frame.

Although using a wide-angle lens which has plenty of inherent depth-of-field, I set the aperture wide-open, trying to blur the background slightly so the boats would be more dominant. I also walked around the boats several times, looking for an angle that positioned them in an interesting manner, and I tried different camera heights and lenses, exploring the brief opportunity as much as I could.

Composition – Use Foreground, Middleground and Background
By using the idea of foreground, middleground and background, you can lead your viewer’s eye into the composition of your photograph. In the image above, the large boat has been positioned in the bottom of the frame, the second boat is to one side, and then behind and to the other side is a gap in the cliffs behind. These positions lead the eye into the scene. When you look through the viewfinder, try to analyse your photos in terms of shapes and positions.

To see more of Peter’s work see his website here. To purchase Limited Edition prints visit here.

Not just good for eating…

Friday, June 18th, 2010

Last week I was shooting in Africa with my good friend Mike from Evoke Photography. We had a 5 light set-up going including a 5 foot Profoto octa-bank on a boom as one of the main lights. However, we had no way to weight the boom to keep the light from tipping forward. Enter one of nature’s heaviest fruits. With a little help from one of the most useless of Photographers tools the PC sync cord we were able to tie it on so the pineapple didn’t fall out. A big thanks to pocket wizard for making the PC cord so outdated that it was actually useful ;-) Long live P-Wizzy’s!

Lesson to learn?…. Improvise!

Fun with Topaz 4 | Photoshop Plug-In

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

Topaz Adjust 4 is a great little plug in for landscapes. It doesn’t work great on people unless they are very well lit with strobes…trust me I’ve tried! Here are a few before and after shots on some less than stellar landscapes that got a new life with a couple of clicks in Topaz. As with any filter you have to use sparingly to maintain a level of reality. Always duplicate your layer first and then lower the opacity to taste. These are a little over-processed but it was late and I was having fun tweaking them. The first shot is RAW straight out of camera. The second shot is after processing in Topaz with one or two clicks.  The first and second one are “Charcoal” setting and the third series was the “HDR Night” setting.

Photoshop Tip: Skin (Continuation)

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

Today we are going to continue the retouch on our model. The last two tutorials were on cleaning up dark circles under the eyes and enhancing the eyes. Next I usually move onto skin and other distractions. I have included a redmarked image at the bottom so you can see what was done. I only used one tool to accomplish all this. The patch tool. There are many ways to achieve these results such as the clone tool, the healing brush and the spot healing brush but I prefer to use the patch tool. It takes a bit more time but I like the results better. Remember, I use a Wacom tablet and if you are just using a mouse it might be a bit harder.

The patch tool lets you select an “good area” next to what you want to remove and use that as the “patch.” Make sure your patch tool is set to source in the upper left. Next carefully select the bad area and then drag it to the good area to patch it. Keep it as close as possible and if there are any hard lines make sure you match them. You will get a preview of the source area as you are patching so just line it up and let go when you are ready.

I use the patch tool for moles, veins, dark spots, pimples, stray hairs, or any shadow that is distracting. It can also be used to remove items such as the necklace. If you look carefully at the redmarked image there is a lot of patch work and I used the tool to remove any “distractions.” However, the overall effect is subtle and just lets you concentrate on the message your client intended.

Redmarked:

Pre Adjust:

Post Adjust:

Close Ups:

Redmarked:

Pre Adjust:

Post Adjust: